In a city jam-packed with Italian restaurants, chef Ashley Rath — who has cooked everywhere from LaLou to The Grill — expresses her own take on this beloved cuisine at this charming West Village trattoria. Cicchetti (Venetian “tapas”) are featured, the spaghettini comes with cherry tomatoes, and the star entree is a not-at-all-Italian (but impeccably cooked) Dover sole.